The Integration and Innovation of Calligraphy Art and Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage Techniques: A Practical Study on Presenting Calligraphic Texture through the Kesi Weaving Craft
Main Article Content
Abstract
Kesi, a traditional Chinese silk-weaving technique centered on the core craft of “tong jing duan wei”, is renowned as the “sacred art of weaving.” Its ability to render lines and create layered textures provides a unique carrier for the three-dimensional presentation of calligraphy art. This paper systematically sorts out the historical context of the integration between calligraphic textures and the Kesi craft, analyzes the structural and technical correspondences between the two in terms of line rhythm, texture expression, and woven surface formation, and verifies the technical paths of Kesi in reproducing the weight variations and ink tone gradations of calligraphy through typical cases. The study finds that the Qiangzhi technique of Kesi can simulate the ink-wash effect of calligraphy; the Dasuo technique can solve the problem of weaving vertical strokes; and the “Hehua Threads” technique can achieve the transition between dense and light brush intentions. Classic works such as the Kesi scroll of Mi Fu Xing Shu Zhou from the Ming Dynasty have already formed a mature paradigm of “yi suo dai bi ”, which provides important references for contemporary innovation. The research results fill the gap in technical transformation in the interdisciplinary field of calligraphy and Kesi, and offer theoretical support and practical templates for the creative transformation of intangible cultural heritage techniques. Furthermore, this study constructs a formalized “texture translation” theoretical model to clarify the cross-medium conversion mechanism between calligraphic expression and Kesi craftsmanship, and supplements a quantitative analysis method for texture similarity evaluation, which may provide a methodological reference for digital texture recognition, electromagnetic surface sensing, and non-contact characterization of woven cultural heritage materials.
Downloads
Article Details
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).
References
J. Wu and B. Chen, “Historical Inheritance and Contemporary Application Value of Kesi,” Journal of Clothing Research, vol. 1, no. 5, pp. 5, 2016, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-7147.2016.05.015.
J. Yang and X. Li, “Kesi Works of Calligraphy and Painting (Ancient and Modern),” Journal of Wuhan Textile University, 2014.
Y. Su and M. Ge, “On the Historical Evolution and Artistic Characteristics of Kesi,” Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology, 2017, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1674-2346.2017.02.011.
Y. Yang, ““The Sage of Weaving” - Inheritance of Traditional Techniques of Chinese Kesi,” Forum on Chinese Culture, vol. 000, no. 003, pp. 141-144, 2013.
J. Xu, “Kesi: A Treasure of Ancient Chinese Weaving Art,” Art China, 2022.
H. Dong, “The Application of Geometric Figures in Traditional Calligraphic Art and Its Visual Communication Effect,” Applied Mathematics and Nonlinear Sciences, pp. 9, 2024, doi: 10.2478/amns-2024-3573.
J. Wang and Y. Zu, “Inheritance and Application of Calligraphy Elements in Silk Garment Design,” Silk, vol. 49, no. 12, pp. 4, 2012, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2012.12.015.
Zhejiang Arts & Crafts, “Kesi: “One Inch of Kesi Thread Equals One Inch of Gold”,” Zhejiang Arts & Crafts, vol. 000, no. 009, pp. 64-71, 2019.
H. Li, “Appreciation of Chinese Embroidery,” in Li H (Ed.), Introduction to Chinese Embroidery, Springer Nature Singapore, Singapore, 2024, pp. 189-216, doi: 10.1007/978-981-97-5926-2_5.
C. Gu, “Study on the Artistic Characteristics of Kesi Patterns in the Mounting of Ancient Calligraphy and Painting,” Journal of Wuhan Textile University, vol. 33, no. 5, pp. 5, 2020, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2095-414X.2020.05.003.
Baofeng X (Ed.), “Mounting of Painting and Calligraphy,” in Contextual Dictionary of Chinese Cultural Knowledge, Springer Nature Singapore, Singapore, 2025, pp. 672-672, doi: 10.1007/978-981-99-5009-6_10982.
X. Wang, “Historical Survival and Contemporary Value of Kesi Art,” Modern Silk Science & Technology, vol. 38, no. 3, pp. 23-26, 2023, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1674-8433.2023.03.007.
Y. Cao, “A Study on the Silk “Baoshou” (Head Wrap) of Calligraphy and Painting Scrolls in the Song Dynasty,” Journal of Gugong Studies, 2014.
Y. Yu, “Textual Research on Kesi Craftsmanship in the Song Dynasty - Concurrent Discussion on the Craft Character istics of the Collected Kesi Painting Lotus Pond with Ducklings,” Cultural Relics in Southern China, vol. 000, no. 004, pp. 226-234, 2021, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1004-6275.2021.04.026.
M. Cao, “Study on the Artistic Characteristics of Kesi in the Ming Dynasty,” Liaoning Silk, no. 1, pp. 4-5, 2024, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-3389.2024.01.002.
L. Wu, “Research on the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage Kesi Craftsmanship and Innovative Product Design Based on Digital Technology,” Shandong Textile Economy, no. 7, p. 3, 2019, doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1673-0968.2019.07.015.
W. Piao, “The Origin and Spread of Kesi,” In Academic Essays of Liaoning Provincial Museum, (1999-2008), Volume 3, 2009.
Z. Yin, “Study on the Painterly Quality of Kesi Patterns in the Ming and Qing Dynasties,” Shanghai Arts & Crafts, no. 4, pp. 14-16, 2024.
Textile Engineering, “Study on Characters and Their Patterns in Ancient Chinese Textiles,” 2015.
Y. Liu, “Zhu Kerou’s Kesi Work Butterflies and Camellias of the Southern Song Dynasty,” Collector, no. 12, p. 1, 2007.
Y. Chen, “Study on the Contemporary Design Application and Development of Suzhou Kesi Art,” Jiangnan University, 2021.
Y. Song, “Study on the High-End Productization of Traditional Handicraft Kesi,” Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2017. L. Wang
Y. Sun, “Suzhou Kesi - “The Sage of Weaving” with the Technique of “Continuous Warps and Broken Wefts”,” Shanghai Arts & Crafts, 2009.